How to Plant a Tree or Shrub Correctly

Why Proper Planting Matters

A healthy tree or shrub begins below the soil. Planting too deeply, choosing a poorly drained location or watering incorrectly can stress even a high-quality plant.

The goal is to place the plant at the correct depth, encourage roots to grow into the surrounding soil and maintain even—but not constantly saturated—moisture while the plant becomes established.

The most important planting rule

Never bury the trunk flare of a tree. The point where the trunk begins to widen into the main roots should remain visible at or slightly above the finished soil level.

Before You Dig

Choose a plant suited to the location’s sunlight, drainage, available space and exposure.
Check the plant’s expected mature height and width—not just its size at the time of purchase.
Contact 811 and follow local requirements before digging. Public utility marking may not identify private irrigation, landscape lighting or other owner-installed lines.
Inspect the planting area after heavy rain. Locations that hold standing water require plants tolerant of wet soil or a properly designed drainage solution.
Avoid digging or working soil when it is waterlogged because this can damage soil structure and worsen compaction.

Tree and Shrub Planting Steps

Measure the Root Ball

Measure the root ball before digging. The planting hole should be approximately two to three times as wide as the root ball but no deeper than necessary.

A wide hole loosens the surrounding soil and makes it easier for new roots to grow outward.

Find the Correct Planting Depth

For trees, locate the trunk flare before placing the plant in the hole. Container-grown and balled-and-burlapped trees sometimes have excess soil covering the flare.

Set the trunk flare at or slightly above the surrounding finished grade. Shrubs should generally be set at the same depth they were growing, unless excess soil is covering the top of the root system.

Prepare the Root Ball

Remove the nursery container completely. Loosen or correct circling and matted roots so they can grow outward into the surrounding soil. Sever tightly circling woody roots when they cannot be redirected.

For balled-and-burlapped plants, position the plant first and then remove all synthetic material, twine and tags. Remove the burlap and wire basket from the upper portion of the root ball without allowing the root ball to break apart.

Position and Straighten the Plant

Place the plant on firm, undisturbed soil in the bottom of the hole. Step back and inspect it from more than one direction before backfilling.

Avoid placing loose soil beneath the root ball because it can settle and cause the plant to sink too deeply.

Backfill With Existing Soil

Refill the hole primarily with the soil removed from it, breaking up large clumps as you work. Unless a site-specific soil evaluation recommends otherwise, avoid creating a heavily amended planting pocket that differs sharply from the surrounding soil.

Gently firm the soil by hand and water during backfilling to settle the soil naturally. Do not compact it aggressively with your feet.

Water Thoroughly

Water the entire root ball and surrounding backfilled area slowly and deeply immediately after planting. This settles the soil and removes large air pockets.

If water remains standing for an extended period, stop and evaluate the drainage rather than continuing to add water.

Apply Natural Cedar Mulch

Apply approximately 2 to 3 inches of natural cedar mulch over the planting area. Spread it outward in a broad, even layer.

Keep mulch several inches away from trunks, the root flare and shrub stems. Never pile mulch against the plant in a “mulch volcano.”

Stake Only When Necessary

Many properly planted trees do not require staking. Stake only when the root ball is unstable, the site is unusually windy or the plant cannot remain upright without support.

Use broad, flexible ties and allow slight trunk movement. Inspect the ties regularly and remove the supports after the tree is stable, generally within one growing season.

How to Water After Planting

Check the soil instead of relying only on a calendar

Newly planted trees and shrubs need consistent moisture throughout the root ball, but roots also need oxygen. Watering needs change with plant size, soil texture, rainfall, temperature, wind and drainage.

Check moisture a few inches into the root ball and nearby soil. If it feels cool and moist, wait and check again later. If it feels dry, water slowly and deeply over the root zone.

Hot, dry or windy weather may increase watering needs. Heavy clay, compacted soil and poorly drained locations may stay wet much longer. Lawn sprinklers and brief surface watering are usually not enough to wet a new root ball properly.

Continue monitoring new plants throughout their establishment period, including dry fall weather. Evergreens continue losing moisture through their foliage during winter and benefit from entering winter with adequately moist—not saturated—soil.

Should You Fertilize a Newly Planted Tree or Shrub?

Do not automatically add fertilizer to the planting hole. Water management, correct planting depth and root establishment are the first priorities.

Fertilizer should be based on the plant’s needs, soil conditions and product directions. Too much fertilizer can injure roots or encourage excessive top growth before the root system is established.

Common Planting Mistakes

Do

Keep the tree’s root flare visible.
Dig a wide planting hole.
Correct circling container roots.
Water slowly over the root zone.
Check actual soil moisture.
Keep mulch away from trunks and stems.

Don’t

Plant too deeply.
Leave a container around the root ball.
Leave synthetic burlap or twine in place.
Compact wet soil around the plant.
Water automatically when soil is already wet.
Pile mulch against the trunk.

Warning Signs to Watch For

Some temporary stress can occur after planting, particularly during hot or windy weather. Investigate the root zone and site conditions if you notice:

Persistent wilting despite moist soil
Standing water or a sour odor around the root ball
Rapid yellowing or browning
A root ball that remains dry while surrounding soil is wet
A plant leaning because the root ball is moving
Mulch, soil or settling that has buried the trunk flare
Bark damage, broken branches or girdling ties

Symptoms such as wilting and browning can result from either dry roots or oxygen-starved, waterlogged roots. Check the soil before assuming the plant needs more water.

Download the Complete Planting Guide

Keep the printable FLS Tree & Shrub Planting Guide available while planning and installing your next landscape project.

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